Anonymous
Anonymous asked in Cars & TransportationCar MakesDodge · 8 years ago

Idle and Emission test problems on a 97 3.3 Dodge Intrepid?

Idle starts above 1000 then goes down then slightly up and it ends up that when fully warmed up the idle is way up to 1000-1100 rpm. Failed part of.HC drive mode emission test indicates rich fuel is to

The HC max reading allowed is 57 and it read 81.Originally the prob was the idle would flexute from 25-50 rpms or more when warming up and in drive but it idled fully warmed up fairly normally within 800-900 rpm range but still flexuted when idling or at a lite.Gs mileage wasnt bad maybe 26-28 mpg on hwy.Now obviously its burning alot more fuel. A bit more detail is its a 3.3 96 intrepid and I took the throttle body apart cleaned idle control motor etc and replaced gasket.Tried a couple of used map sensors and ACT sensor.All plugs are gapped right and new, wires ohms tested and tested fine, even compared exact same plug wire ohms readings and they matched exactly. It frustrating bec when I drove to get the new gasket for throttle body my car didnt idle at1000-1100 rpms and it ran fine besides the minor flexuting idle issues.The throttle body did have carbon build up that I cleaned with 3/4 of can of a large can of throttle body cleaner, plus I has cleaned throttle body previously. Does the TPS and idle control motor recalibrate oif comp was disconnected before changing them and reconnecting it?Would the idle control motor be why its not warming up properly and is warmed up at such high idle speeds?Why would after driving it hwy speeds for 40 mins and then placing it in park would the idle go up to the 1100 mark when it was already warmed up fully and sat at 1000 before I left?What causes such issues and how can I trouble shoot them with only basic tools?Would a leaky vac system or a EGR tube that has one snapped bolt that attaches to manifold but is sealed with high temperature gasket maker and one bolt and seems quite solidly mounted cause emissions to fail and high idle issues like this? Ive taken the TPS and Idle motor back off to check to see how the TPS comapres in ohm meter tests matched to some spare TPS sensors I have for the car.Does the ECM calibrate the idle Motor together with the TPS id ECM reset via battery?The shaft on those idle motors how far is the max their allowed to be out when installing them and how are they measured from bottom of from where u can first see the base of shaft?I read that Dodge says the idle motor shaft cant be out more then 1 inch when installed and if so the ECM has to be accessed via the data port and the idle motor has to be adjusted? Is there another way besides using scanners or equipment to rest or calibrate this idle motor?I gather this issue has to be throttle body related or a vac leak or calibration problems. I hope that ppl can offer me a well explained detailed answer bec it's vital for me to get this car passing Etest asap and I have a wedding to go to that is a far drive away a its very soon too.Thanx all for reading this and Merry Xmas , Happy New year to one and all.

Update:

Thanx Chan. I cleaned the throttle body part where it bolts on and I had removed that assembly so it wasn't hot when I cleaned itso I doubt it could damaged anything.Didn't clean any sensors etc with throttle body cleaner only the throttle body itself.

Update I've got the idle down via the idle stopper screw adjustment and it runs better but I have to wait till its cooled right down to see how the rpms act once it's cold started and then warming up.

Again thanx to all that read this and to anybody that answers.

3 Answers

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  • 8 years ago
    Best Answer

    well the idle control is sensitive to cleaner so you could have fouled it or easily bent it. it sounds more like a bad egr valve or vac line failure. not all vac lines leak, some collapse and won't pull vac on the egr ecu advance etc

  • 8 years ago

    I have seen this issue in the past, high idle, failure to pass E test. The Map was the problem. It worked, but was for a 2.7, and not a 3.3. Which makes sense, it controls fuel delivery. Check the part number, to make yours is for a 3.3. Hope this helps.

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    Lv 4
    3 years ago

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