Yahoo Answers is shutting down on May 4th, 2021 (Eastern Time) and beginning April 20th, 2021 (Eastern Time) the Yahoo Answers website will be in read-only mode. There will be no changes to other Yahoo properties or services, or your Yahoo account. You can find more information about the Yahoo Answers shutdown and how to download your data on this help page.

Anonymous asked in PetsRodents · 8 years ago

What is better for 2 mice: Aquarium or Wire cages?

I am abit confused, some people say to get aquariums/wire cages for mice, currently I am choosing to use my old hamster cage for them(I am going to scrub and clean it very well) and it is wire cage. I'd also like to ask, do mice need alfalfa and can they eat hamster food/treats? :D WHOOPY thanks strangers

5 Answers

  • 8 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    I prefer bin homes as they are spacious, inexpensive and easy to clean. Like tanks and Trail type homes, though, ventilation can be an issue, but nightly spot cleaning of the tinkle/poo areas will prevent ammonia build-up. Tank or bin, you need a lid made from screen or hardware cloth. There are many sites with instructions for converting the lid if you opt for a bin, or you can buy a screen tank lid along with secure clips.

    I switched to the bin homes after an adult doe, Daisy, escaped from a lovely wire cage I had with 1/4" wire spacing. As I found out, if a mouse can fit her head through, her body can easily follow. Hamster cages typically have bar spacing too large for mice, so keep this in mind.

    TFM is an excellent mouse site with a Fancy Mouse Information page and an active forum. The FMI page has a section listing the pros and cons of major housing. There is a mouse cage calculator, too, that you might find of use, and a thread with housing set ups that might provide ideas. Following are the links:

    (If you cannot read the above thread, you will need to register first.)

    Regarding food, you are spot on with hamster food as most mice require between 13 to 14% crude protein and the majority of mouse food on the market has too much protein. Many people in the mouse community that use a commercial seed mix get Brown's Tropical hamster/gerbil mix minus the peanuts, sunflower seeds, dried corn and raisins. The first and second are high allergy/calorie foods. The third has been linked to cancer/mold problems. The fourth can cause renal failure. TFM has a section on diet on the FMI page as well as a Nutrition category on the forum. I shall include one thread of many with a list of safe/unsafe foods that although it originated in regards to a pregnant doe diet, the foods listed are for all mice. I shall also include, again one thread of many, discussing BTC hamster/gerbil mix. Links follow:

    (Again, if you cannot read the above threads, you will need to register first.)

    The FMI page also has information on bedding, tips on taming and so forth. The index page along with the forum where you can find the Nutrition category are below:

    I read your Q about toys and thought I would just answer here. TFM has a thread on toys to make for little or no cost and for making MESs (Mouse Entertainment Systems) which are structures you build from popsicle sticks and non-toxic glue. I picked up a cheap hot glue gun for the MESs, and it made making them a snap. The links are:

    (Again, if you cannot read the above threads, you will need to register first.)

    You also asked for tips so...When taming, never chase a mouse. It causes distrust. Allow the mouse to come onto your hand willingly. Offer a treat in your palm such as a Cheerio and allow her to safely take it away. Do not become a human vending machine, though, or she will never stay on your hand. Offer your hand to explore without food, too. Empty paper towel rolls make great toys as well as great transportation. Once the mouse goes in, use your palms to cover both ends and you can then safely take the mouse to the designated area. This works well on cage cleaning day with new mice who will not cooperate with coming onto your hand. Nightly spot cleaning not only helps prevent ammonia build up, but helps control odor. Washing wheels and plastic tubes nightly is another good way to keep the smell down, especially when the mice are juveniles as they tend to use the wheels and tubes as a potty.

  • ?
    Lv 4
    5 years ago

    Wire mesh cages with a plastic tray floor is the quality for keeping any rodent and they aren't pricey. The scale doesnt ought to be too tremendous. 1x1x1 foot cage is first-class for 1 rat. Get your cage relying on how many rats you are going to have. However aquariums suck, unhealthy ventilation, affliction in the *** to wash it out and it stinks too and the rats wont be very relaxed both and it is going to need to be colossal.

  • 8 years ago

    I have used both. Aquariums are more spacious but the wire cages give you better ventilation. I guess it depends on what you are looking for. They will absolutely eat hamster treats!

  • Anonymous
    8 years ago

    I use wire cages that martins custom made for me. You actually have to contact Martins cages and ask them to make you these cages, include all within the quotes: "CC-2414 – Modified – 24" w x 14"t x 14"d, 1/2” x 1/2”, flip-top lid, front door with 2 latches, collapsible carrier, 4 latch springs (two to secure pan and two to secure lid to cage)."

    They will come to you assembled and you just attach the spring hooks and the cage will be ready go go!

    I prefer the wire as it gives them better ventilation. Plus it is easier to monitor the water bottles.

    Good luck!

    Source(s): Slave to 28 rats, 2 Syrian hamster, 8 mice
  • How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer.
  • 8 years ago

    wire cages

    They have better ventilation

Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.