What’s wrong with my motorcycle? ?
I recently bought a used 2013 Honda CBR250R. The previous owner said the battery had trouble holding charge. I replaced the battery with a new one and the bike started and ran just fine for two days. I noticed the bike made an odd clicking/buzzing noise when I pressed the kill switch, but would start when I pressed the ignition switch.
The bike now doesn’t start. When I turn the key to on, the speedometer doesn’t go up an down like before. The head light, tail light, and instrument lights are now very faint.
I jump started the bike earlier today. The bike made that weird clicking/buzzing noise after I pressed the kill switch. I pressed the ignition switch and the bike was rough to start, but it eventually started. I let the bike run for a few minutes, then turned it off. I tried starting it again afterwards but it wouldn’t turn over. The lights came on, but faded away like before.
What’s wrong with my motorcycle? I’m guessing it’s the stator, battery, or rectifier.
- Anonymous7 days ago
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- J.B.SchneiderLv 71 month ago
I am a retired Honda mechanic. I replaced many alternator stators on many models. I would test that component first.
- Anonymous2 months ago
I suspect your charging system is up the creek. Get it tested and replace the generator.
- Anonymous2 months ago
You take to a bike shop and they can narrow it down to 1 thing instead of 3 things. They have testing equipment.
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- fuzzyLv 62 months ago
If bike starts when you press on the ignition switch but wont when you dont I'd say time for a new ignition switch (or at least check the wiring to it.)
- ExoplanetLv 72 months ago
It could just need new alternator or starter carbon brushes--involves lookin' at 'em. It could be loose / corroded battery wire ground or hot connection--involves lookin' at 'em and wigglin' 'em. The easiest thing to do is TO CHECK THE RESTING AND CHARGING VOLTAGES OF THE BATTERY WITH A DVM. Ya gotta touch the two (2) wires from the dvm to the two (2) posts of the battery. Count 'em: ONE, TWO. It's pretty advanced troubleshooting, dude. I would take off the fairings and covers and look at the starter and alternator. Was the bike stored outside? You don't say. Ya might wanna replace the battery cables if there's noticeable corrosion. Butcha don't tell us that, either. Oh well. Apparently it's had no electrical system maintenance whatsoever. You can fix that. There's a book called Motorcycle Electrical Systems, if you care.
- El PetardLv 52 months ago
Let's be Systematic, not Shotgunning. Eliminate improbable: Battery, as it is new, and you have same problem as before (can happen, those Battery Plus units can go out in 6 months. I've had to shell out for a good, new Yuasa, twice.)
Stators Rarely go out. Old Skools would completely rewire old Triumphs But retain the stator. Even Lucas Electrics can make a good one. B***h to get at/replace, anyway. (To find it takes bench charging battery, seeing if voltage comes up to 13.8 on revving. If not, And, reg/.rect not the problem; check AC volts at all 3 phases. Should be 20 VAC or so, reg/rect removed to eliminate it as the problem.) i doubt starter or relay, either.
The bike is 7 years years old.Unless brand new, you always inherit the (lack of) maintenance from a former owner. A new one might have a component problem, or connector not pushed home if assembled on Mon or Fri. .
I always suspect connections; at the battery positive and all grounds (these often ignored , neglected.) Clean and tighten all battery/ground connections and lugs; check for good crimps at lugs. Charge battery overnight, run motor at 1500 or so, see if charge voltage above 13.8.If so, leave her a few days, try starting again . If battery dead., try recharging it and then removing battery from negative lead a few days, then replace it. . If it starts fine, suspect a short/load. Finding this takes placing voltmeter's leads between either battery terminal and its cables, and pulling fuses and replacing them, one at a time, until meter goes to zero
Rectifiers are integral with regulators on your particular make/model. Potted in epoxy and almost impossible to repair. If it won't get to 13.8 (and doesn't exceed 14,4 with brites on--another problem that can toast even a new battery), suspect the reg/rec. Do NOT get an Ebay new Chinese unit; get OEM Honda, used Honda, or NOS. My Chinese Reg rect. had intermittent diodes.
On an older Honda, especially, pull all Molex/spade connectors between battery and RR, starter, etc. I found a lot of displaced pins on my old Honda--the tabs can be bent out again to hold and re inserted. If broken; new pins or epoxy it. Tighten pins a bit and use a blob of Vaseline to lubricate them and the locking tabs and prevent oxidation/ corrosion. Previous acid spills from old fashioned wet cell batteries often seeps to connectors far removed from the battery. Clean w/baking soda then water. Many Molex shells on my old Honda disintegrated at a touch. I got new shells at a local electronics surplus store for 49 cents each. That AZ sun...
Also look for a "charge" fuse in box, check its tightness and any screw terminals/lugs. Check tightness of mains fuse/fusible link. Bikes hit more bumps than cages, vibration is worse, too, so these gremlins affect them more. A high resistance at the mains lead to starter might prevent or make for slow cranking or "clicking" at relay (and solenoid if any) but still allow good, bright headlamps and a good charge rate. Often, these circuits on separate wires. The Pontiac had a bad crimp on one, so starting was intermittent;even with new battery and starter. Wire could be pulled right out.. My Harley often wouldn't start,a small wire to the aftermarket tuner had a bad crimp to its ground lug.(newer bikes with EFI need handshakes/ checksums before they will start, even if charging system/starter Ok. Act dead as a door nail.) My old Honda got intermittent ignition; the 37 year-old fuse box had two buss rails simply pressed in and had come loose. I had to solder them in.
EDIT: Rarely is it both a parasitic drain and charging problem. I suppose it could happen but I haven't seen both in over 33 years of riding and fixing electrical. Most el. probs,. are solitary; either bad battery or connection or insulation rubbing. A $5 HF DVM can quickly find the culprit.
No, Stators are usually Last even in a 1983 Honda. Unless bike dropped on it. . Do NOT shotgun, electrical problems have the unique ease of diagnosis with a $5 DVM,. Remember, 20VAC at each phase, open circuit at 1500 RPM?
- Anonymous2 months ago
To lose all charge from a new battery in just two days is remarkable, suggests a big drain as well as not charging.
Get yourself a multimeter. And this
And diagnose it before splashing cash.
- Anonymous2 months ago
Charge the battery. Get a mutimeter. Start bike and check voltage across the battery with the rpms at 1500. Voltage should be at least 13.8 V. If voltage is low, check voltage coming out of rectifier. Check for a good battery ground connection.
- adamLv 42 months ago
whats wrong is the fact that you havent gone over the charging system to find the problem. I doubt its the stator. It takes a very heavy blow [usually] to harm that component. I would be looking at wiring connections first. Then the regulator/rectifier. Fuse box and fuses.